La Bonne Soupe

The haute-cuisine Midtown of Lutece and La Cote Basque is just a ghost now. I cant quite believe Im saying this, but its spirit of French cooking may be strongest at La Bonne Soupe on West 55th Street. For most of its 48-year run, the compact zinc bar and exposed ceiling beams conjured Paris more faithfully than the menu, where Les Burgers were a mainstay. Recently, though, the kitchen was handed to Nicolas Frezal, who helped revive a Right Bank bistro called Astier after putting in time at the Ritz. He gave the menu a haircut, and brought on new dishes like a housemade terrine with bread from Poilane... and beef bourguignon exactly the way I always hope it will be made, down to the nest of fresh egg noodles. I like it even better than the motto in the restaurants window: Ici pas de chi chi. - Pete Wells, New York Times Restaurant Critic